March 15th, 2001 The Rio Palguin, Chile.
By Eric Nies
It is my sad task to tell you all that Brennan Guth, of Missoula,
Montana,
died on the Rio Palguin near Pucon, Chile, on March 15, 2001. He
and I were
paddling together at the time. My heart goes out to all of you who
loved
Brennan as much as I did. He is gone, and I miss him terribly.
Brennanīs death occurred in an undercut cave on the lower Palguin, in the
last set of big drops near the take-out. The weather was warm, and
the river
level was low. This cave is a fairly well-known hazard that
catches a large
part of the riverīs current. The current flows so smoothly under
the wall at
the back of the cave that the spot has all the appearance of an
underwater
tunnel, although subsequent exploration has shown that this is not
the case.
Brennan knew of the cave, and felt it was reasonable to run the
8-foot drop
about 100 feet upstream of this spot. He had run this drop before
without
incident, as have others. On this trip, Brennan got caught in the
pourover
at the base of the drop, was forced to swim, and was carried into
the cave.
He was initially stable in the cave, holding onto the walls and
talking
calmly about his situation. Throughout the rescue he remained
visible at the
back of the cave. However, he undoubtedly became hypothermic
during the
protracted rescue efforts, which-for reasons discussed below--went
on for
over an hour. When the rope eventually reached him, he was
apparently unable
even to push an arm through the loop at the end. He was also
without his
life jacket, as he had removed it during earlier efforts to swim
out of the
cave. Finally, I entered the cave on a tether. When I reached the
back of
the cave Brennan had disappeared below the waterīs surface.
Although it is
hard to remember precisely and I cannot be sure of this, I believe
Brennan
went under while we were setting up the tethered-swimmer rescue.
His body was recovered the next day by a SCUBA diver from Temuco,
who found
it lodged against the wall approximately 5 meters underwater. I must thank
and commend the river and canyoneering guides at Trelin Outdoor
Center who
lined a raft into the cave the next day and did the initial
underwater
exploration; and also the regional police and rescue services of
Chile, who
also did an outstanding job both recovering Brennanīs body and
dealing with
the situation as a whole.
Brennan Guth and I were travelling independently in Chile this
season, me
for a few weeks only, Brennan for the better part of the Chilean
summer. We
happened to meet up at the Rio Futaleufu south of Puerto Montt,
and kayaked there for several days until bad weather and flooding spurred us
to drive
through Argentina to Pucon. Brennan was keen to show me some of
the classic
rivers in the Pucon district.
After spending several days kayaking and drying out in Esquel and
Bariloche,
we arrived in Pucon the afternoon of the 13th, and ran the upper
Palguin, a
short, popular creek run near town. The next day, we met up with
Barbara
Winter, an Austrian kayaker that Brennan had met in Pucon several
months
earlier, and ran the upper Rio Fuy, another popular run about two
hours from
town.
On the 15th, I had a plane ticket for 7pm, from Temuco to Stgo to
Miami to
Pittsburgh. Brennan was planning to stay for another week or so,
then return
his rental pick-up and head home as well. Our plan that day was to
do a
repeat run on the upper Palguin in the morning (2 km), and to push
through
the less-frequently run middle section (1 km) and lower section (2
km) if
time allowed. Barbara again joined us, but just for the upper
Palguin run.
We all knew this run, and the trip went smoothly. The highlight
was
Brennanīs spectacular run through the double-drop on this stretch,
which is
normally portaged. With most of the day still ahead of us, Brennan
and I
opted to push on to the more difficult and less well-known middle
section.
Things went well. Barbara drove the truck down and met us at the
most
difficult section of the middle part, a set of three impressive
drops. The
first of these, a 20-foot drop with a shallow Gorilla-type
landing, may not
have been run before. Brennan helped me portage, then ran the drop
and
cleaned it. The second drop Brennan had run several years
earlier, but not
in the style he wanted. This time he almost stuck his entry boof,
rolled up
in the halfway pool and eddied out. He was almost laughing when he
called
out, 'Dammit I almost HAD it,' then he paddled off the lip of the
40-footer
that finished the run.
I was planning to seal-launch into the halfway pool and run the
40-footer,
and Brennan must have waited 15 minutes while I fretted with my
gear and did
my Zen breathing. I remember the mist, the moss on the rocks, the
hit at the
bottom, and Brennanīs smile when I rolled up.
We sat for a bit on the hot flat rocks above the last drop, a
straight-shot
50-footer. Brennan told me that nobody who had run it thought it
was a good
idea afterward. I groveled through the jungle to the pool below,
picked up
the boats after Brennan chucked them to me, then watched Brennanīs
only
portage that day, a 50-foot leap through clear space into the
waiting water.
We continued onto the lower Palguin, which was new to me but old
ground to
Brennan. We quickly arrived at the last set of falls, running the
appoach
rapid and eddying out at the scout on the right without incident.
Brennan
had already had his look by the time I joined him on the rocks.
The first
drop consisted of a narrow, ugly-looking falls, maybe 16 feet
high, between
sheer walls. The river stayed gorged up for 100 feet or so, then
opened up
again in a broad, sunny pool below the exit drop, a clean-looking
8-footer.
He planned to run both drops (the first drop is usually portaged)
and told
me to bank-start in between the two falls and run the exit drop
with him.
He mentioned the cave, but thought it didn't look bad today. By
this I think
he meant that the drop above it looked straightforward. He may
also have
meant that the cave itself didn't look bad, as the current into
the cave is
slow, flat, and altogether undramatic. At this time I wasn't
actually sure
where the cave was, and from my bank start the exit drop looked
like another
harmless Palguin drop into a sunny pool.
I got in my boat and waited for Brennan. He went deep and got
bumped around
in the first drop, but nothing bad. Looking as solid as he always
did, he
approached the exit drop and did his run as planned, a partial
boof off the
left edge. I was surprised to see him getting worked in the hole:
a splash,
a boat end, and then a paddle floating away across the pool. I
couldn't see
much else, and decided to carry around on the right to the pool.
This took a
minute or so, and when I arrived I saw his paddle and front wall
in my eddy,
the water hitting the cliff on the far side, and not much else.
Then Brennan called, and I saw him in the back of the cave with
his boat. I
paddled over and ferried above the mouth of the cave. From here I
was maybe
30 feet from Brennan. He was floating chest deep in water in the
back of the
cave, holding onto the side and roof with his hands. The stern of
his boat
was sticking straight up next to him. He was uninjured, and we
could easily
talk.
We discussed what to do. We both knew than neither of us had
ropes. I had
lost mine on a first-descent mini-epic with Brennan the previous
week. As I
watched him try to climb out both sides of the cave, I got the
idea to try
to reach him with bamboo, first from my boat and then from a ledge
above and
slightly downstream of the cave. I spent 20 minutes or so lashing
together
three 20-foot pieces and trying to maneuver it into the cave, with
little
luck at all. I got back in my boat and Brennan agreed that I
needed to get
help. Right then we also discussed whether he needed to take off
his
lifejacket, swim down, and follow the current out of the cave. He
also told
me not to take too long, because he was starting to get cold.
I ran the next drop, and after 5 minutes of easy water I was at
the bridge
talking to Barbara and a campesino who lived nearby. Twenty
minutes later I
was back at the drop talking to Brennan, who was still alert but
sounded
very tired. I saw aslso that he was now out of his life jacket and
helmet.
Five minutes later Barbara and several locals arrived with several
hundred
feet of ― inch rope, most of which was polypropylene. We tied this
together,
I got in my boat, and I think at first one of the locals tried to
throw the
rope from a perch over the exit drop into the cave. This didn't
seem to be
working, and I think that next I tried throwing from my boat. On
one of the
attempts the rope snagged on the bamboo I had been using before,
and I took
this as an opportunity to get the rope across the river and try
from the
ledge near the cave. Again, this didnīt work, although it was
unclear to me
if the rope wasnīt reaching Brennan, or if it was and he couldnīt
grab it.
Next I tied the middle of the rope to the security bar on the
front deck of
my Z. The rope had a loop at it's end, through which we had
clipped a small
yellow dry bag filled with air. With this set-up I could hover
above the
cave, and I clearly saw the rope get to Brennan. We pulled me and
the rope
out, but no Brennan. We repeated this, again the rope got to
Brennan, and
again when we pulled, no Brennan. At this point I had a profound
sense that
Brennan was incredibly cold, weak, and unable to help himself. I
believe I
called to him then and got a weak 'yeah' in reply.
At this point, I put the rope on my rescue harness and paddled
back to the
cave, but when I looked in, I couldnīt see Brennan anymore. I
punched out of
my boat, and was lowered in to the back of the cave on my harness.
I
remember sitting there and looking all around, and thinking that
thereīs
nowhere he could have gone to except down. I felt around a little
bit, then
had them pull me out. I considered going back in, being more
aggressive
about going underwater for him, weighing this against the risk, my
fear, and
my sense that once he went under he would go deep. I came out, and
I told
Barbara and the others that it was over.
Brennan went under a little before 5 pm. Barbara and I waited by
the river
for an hour, while the locals got the police. We talked to them,
and they
called the Fire Dept., who came with perhaps an hour of sunlight
left. I
believe they did not get in the river that night. Brennanīs body
was
recovered the next day. The diver reported that the roof and back
of the
cave formed a smooth wall that curved downward for 40 or 50 feet.
Brennanīs
body was found to the right (downstream) of this smooth wall, in
an undercut
pocket below a more vertical part of the cliff just downstream of
the cave.
Thatīs what happened, as best as I can remember. Iīve been
second-guessing
everything in the chain of events that ended with Brennanīs death.
I know
that if I had done things differently, Brennan would likely be
alive now.
That is a hard truth, and that is the way of this world, and I
will make my
peace with it.
Thanks to all in Chile and back home who have been so helpful
throughout
this event. Too many to name, but you know who you are.
PEACE BE WITH YOU, BRENNAN.
To my friends.